Wild Kashkadarya
Journey to the Edge of the Sky
A story by photographer Dilmurod Akhmedov edited by Sevara Mashrabzoda
Beyond the well-trodden Silk Road lies Kashkadarya, a land of towering canyons, tempestuous rivers and star-studded night skies where the landscapes of Uzbekistan unfold in their most dramatic and untamed form. Here, nature’s grandeur remains untouched, its silence broken only by the whisper of the wind blowing through gorges and the distant rumble of tumbling water.
For four days, I ventured deep into this wild frontier, capturing the raw essence of Kashkadarya – its light and shadow, its solitude and storms. This is a journey not just through a dramatic region, but through time itself, to a place where the mountains stand as they have for millennia, indifferent to the presence of man.
Day 1: Chasing the Stars at Maidanak
We set off before dawn, leaving behind the glow of Tashkent and heading south into the highlands. The road led us over the Jizzakh Pass, past the ancient city of Samarkand, and into Shakhrisabz — where the memory of Amir Temur still lingers in the ruins of his once-mighty palace. Our team was small — just a group of close friends and fellow photographers. We weren’t in a rugged off-roader. Instead, we made the bold choice to take a regular city car, which made the upcoming roads feel all the more unpredictable.
The real journey began when we left the asphalt behind. The dirt road to the Maidanak Plateau — home to one of Central Asia’s most important astronomical observatories — was a winding, bumpy challenge. At 2,600 meters above sea level, this remote outpost is known for its crystal-clear night skies and attracts astronomers from around the world. When we finally arrived, however, we ran into an unexpected obstacle — a military checkpoint restricting further access to the observatory. With no way forward, we set up camp nearby, just beyond the checkpoint. That night, the sky opened above us like a vast canvas of light. With no city glow to interfere, the Milky Way stretched from edge to edge — so bright, it cast faint shadows on the earth. I stood in silence, my lens pointed skyward, trying to capture something that can never truly be captured.
Travel Tip: For those seeking the best stargazing experience, Maidanak is unrivalled, but access requires special permission. If you can’t reach the observatory itself, camping nearby will still reward you with some of the clearest night skies in the world.
Day 2: The Edge of the Kyzylgaza Canyon
At first light, we pressed on toward Kyzylgaza Canyon, climbing ever higher into the mountains. The air thinned, the temperature dropped, and the road — a narrow, winding thread carved into the cliffs — demanded every ounce of our concentration. We were in two cars: a Toyota Land Cruiser 300, built for terrain like this, and a Song Plus — far less suited for mountain driving. When we finally reached the top of Kyzylgaza Pass, the local drivers in their rugged UAZs glanced at the Song with raised eyebrows, silently questioning how we made it that far. Nothing could compare with what lay ahead. The canyon stretched before us like a vision from another world. Sheer rock faces plunged 300 meters into the abyss, their ancient layers telling a story millions of years in the making. At the bottom, the Kolasai River raged, carving a path through the stone. Somewhere within the canyon walls lay the legendary Cave of Amir Temur. It is said that here, among these impenetrable cliffs, the great conqueror hid his most prized treasures.
We stood in silence, humbled by the sheer scale of the landscape. As the sun dipped below the peaks, the canyon walls ignited in hues of amber and crimson, casting long shadows that stretched toward infinity.
That night, once again beneath a sky dense with stars, I set up my camera. In these moments, far away from civilization, time seemed to slow, and the universe itself felt within reach.
Travel Tip: This route is not for the faint-hearted. A proper 4x4 is essential, and sudden changes in weather can make the roads impassable. Always check local conditions before setting out.
Day 3: The Red River Awakens
We returned from the mountains to rest in Shakhrisabz — a much-needed break before continuing on to Suvtushar Waterfall the next day. It was also the only logical route; to reach Suvtushar, we had to pass through the city. That evening, we stopped at a restaurant. A simple plate of meat and potatoes seemed harmless, but it turned out to be a mistake. A few hours later, as we neared the Kyzildarya River, the first signs of food poisoning hit me. Weakness, fever, and nausea crept in just as nature decided to put on its most terrifying display. Normally a calm, pale stream, the Kyzildarya had started to swell. The sky turned dark, and the river began to rage — its waters shifting from soft white to a deep, iron-red hue as sediment flowed down from the cliffs. Some of our team had gone ahead, entering a narrow gorge that led to a hidden waterfall. I saw the river rising fast and knew we had no time to waste. I dropped my camera and ran.I found them already making their way out of the canyon. I crossed the river, shouting that they had to hurry — the small footbridge we had used was already being swallowed by the floodwaters.We made it out, just in time. More people were behind us, and the river continued to rise. It was a narrow escape — too close for comfort. That night, lying feverish in a roadside hotel, I realized just how vulnerable we are. Between the sickness and the power of the swollen river, it became painfully clear: in Kashkadarya, nature always has the final say.
Travel Warning: Never enter canyons or riverbeds during or after heavy rain. Flash floods in Kashkadarya can be deadly. As the locals say, the Kyzildarya does not forgive.
Day 4: Suvtushar – A Waterfall at the Edge of the World
The next morning, still weak from the night before, I pushed on. Our final destination was Suvtushar Waterfall — one of Uzbekistan’s hidden natural treasures. It took us two hours of driving over rough terrain to reach the edge of the Gissar Nature Reserve. From there, it was only a 20-minute hike to the falls — normally an easy walk. But for me, it was a mountain. Still sick, still dizzy, I struggled along the narrow path. That 20-minute trail took me over an hour. Each step felt heavier than the last. But eventually, I arrived. Before me, water thundered down a 40-meter cliff, crashing into the valley below. Mist filled the air. The roar echoed off the canyon walls. And just as the sun broke through the haze — a rainbow. One perfect arc, glowing in the spray. I tried to lift my camera. I took a few shots. But I knew: some things are meant to be experienced, not captured.
Travel Tip: The best time to visit Suvtushar is in spring, when the waterfall is at full strength. By late summer, the flow weakens, but the hike remains worthwhile for its pristine mountain scenery.
Final Frame: A Journey Beyond the Map
A few days in Kashkadarya offer more than just an adventure; it is an immersion in nature at its most untamed. Here, the mountains do not yield, the rivers do not pause, and the stars do not dim. In this land of legends, where Amir Temur once rode and the Silk Road wound through forgotten valleys, time still belongs to the elements. This is not simply a place to visit. It is a place to surrender to. And for those willing to brave its wild heart, Kashkadarya provides something few places can – the feeling of true discovery.
Travel Essentials for Kashkadarya:
✔ Best time to visit: Spring (April–June) and Fall (September–October) offer the best conditions.
✔ Transport: A high-clearance 4x4 is a must to reach remote areas.
✔ Gear: Sturdy hiking boots, warm layers for cold mountain nights, and GPS or offline maps.
✔ Safety: Always check weather conditions. Sudden storms can make roads and trails impassable.
✔ Permits: Certain areas, including Maidanak Observatory, require special permission, so plan ahead.
