Coco Chapan
How a Vintage Garment Became a Fashion Item
Text by Irina Perova
Photos by Tamila Bismakova and Tamila Valiulina
Until recently, Uzbek chapans could only be found in old photographs or in grandmothers’ chests. Today, the chapan is making a comeback – colourful, vibrant and redolent of history.
Since the 19th century, chapans of different cuts, colours and ornaments have been worn in various regions of Uzbekistan. For example, Samarkand traditionally used rich blue and green hues with geometric patterns symbolising protection and strength. In the Fergana Valley, bright ikat fabrics were preferred, where the colour and design could indicate the wearer’s social status and profession. Embroidery on the chest or sleeves often served as a talisman or a symbol of well-being.
Today the chapan is experiencing a new wave of popularity. Nadira Abdurakhmanova – a stylist, designer and ambassador of the Uzbek chapan – has established the Chapan House-Museum, where both new and antique chapans are showcased and their cultural codes explained. We talked about traditions, modernity and the future of the chapan, the main element in the Uzbek national wardrobe.
How did you become an ambassador for Uzbek chapans?
It wasn’t planned. It’s just a passion that evolved into a lifestyle. I often went to Chorsu bazaar looking for chapans for clients and for myself, and I shared this search on my blog. People started associating me with this element of national dress and nicknamed me Coco Chapan. Under this name, I began releasing merchandise and then created the clothing brand nadi_uz / ITEMS. Now I see the chapan as a sign of individuality and strength.
What makes the chapan so special?
It’s more than just clothing. It has roots, character and a voice. In the past, the chapan was like a passport: its patterns allowed you to “read” the wearer’s region of provenance, status and profession. The ornaments are symbols, encoded messages. And today, it’s simply incredibly beautiful, comfortable and versatile.
What materials are traditionally used when sewing chapans?
Silk and cotton. Even when textiles became more industrial, artisans tried to preserve the purity of the material. It’s clothing that breathes and lives. In a good chapan, you feel not only comfort but also a connection to something authentic.
You opened the Chapan House-Museum. How did this idea come about?
When I realised that there were stacks of vintage chapans lying around in the market that no one was buying, it hurt. This is cultural gold! I dreamed that my mission was to preserve them, to give them a new home and status. That’s how the Chapan House-Museum came to be. Here, we showcase antique items and offer modern chapans sewn from vintage fabrics. It’s not just a showroom – it’s a space where history comes alive.
You often wear chapans yourself. How do people around you react?
It always generates interest, both in Uzbekistan and abroad. Wearing a chapan, you become the centre of attention, in a good way. It creates an aura, attracts compliments and provokes dialogue. It’s a powerful item, not only visually but also energetically.
How is the chapan adapting to modernity?
The form has been preserved, but new details have appeared: pockets, shortened styles, new textures. People want both practicality and originality. We sew chapans that are comfortable to wear every day – while driving, in the city, when travelling.
Do you believe the chapan has a future in global fashion?
Look at the collections of Loro Piana, Etro, Dries Van Noten – you can see the silhouette of the chapan, the fabric work, the Eastern drama. I’m sure that the future lies in ethnic aesthetics. And the chapan, as one of the most expressive symbols, will definitely continue to inspire.
What would you advise those who are just discovering the chapan?
Always look at the fabrics – they should be natural, and the ornaments should not be printed. Pay attention to the inner lining of the chapan; it should also be made of natural fabrics.
In the museum, we select chapans according to character so that a person feels like themselves, only brighter. Not a single guest has ever left without “their” chapan.
How to Choose the Perfect Chapan: Five Useful Tips
Natural fabrics – always.
The best choices are silk, cotton or a combination of the two. Such fabric doesn’t make you sweat, drapes beautifully and lasts longer.
Ornament is not just decoration.
Prefer fabric without prints. Real ikat is always slightly uneven, lively, and it breathes.
Look at the inner lining.
A good chapan is as beautiful inside as it is outside. The finishing, lining and details are important.
Try it on with your usual clothes.
A chapan easily pairs with jeans, T-shirts, white shirts and even evening dresses. Let it resonate with your style.
Trust your feelings.
A chapan should feel like a second skin. It’s not a costume; it’s an extension of the self.
